Industrial Italian and 75¢ Oysters at Zuppa

By The Reluctant Reviewer

With all the shiny new hotspots opening up around the neighborhood it seemed like a good time to chat about a restaurant that has been through the bender of the freshman buzz and is looking like a local staple.  The year was 2005 when Bronx boy Joseph Manzare brought his Italian love to 4^th Street as the chef and co-owner of Zuppa (564 Fourth Street).  Manzare, a James Beard nominee for his work at the Royalton in NY and a protégé of Wolfgang Puck has since been a part of several other SF favorites including Globe Restaurant and SOMA’s very own Tres Agaves.

Five years later, the industrial space still has a mechanically clean feel and a fantastic Happy Hour from 5-7 p.m. Monday-Friday.  Last week I mentioned the $1 Happy Hour oysters at Spire, so I must also mention the even more affordably priced 75 cent oysters featured at the Zuppa Happy Hour.  Part of my reluctance as a reviewer, however, is that I don’t really eat seafood.  Thus I can’t comment on the comparative freshness or taste, but I welcome any comments from those more in the know about the subject.

I’ve been here a few times now for dinner and/or Happy Hour and I’ve not been disappointed by the food or service; the waiter even refolded my napkin when I went to the restroom… so classy.  The eatery also supports local organic farms, natural meats and sustainable fishing practices, which seems to be becoming the norm for standard practice in our city… not that there’s anything wrong with that.

As far as the food, I suggest starting off with some of their house cured meats like the Coppa spicy pork jowl which comes in perfectly thin slices of salty goodness.  Definitely try one of their pizzas, like the Bianca with seasonal vegetables and prosciutto cooked right out of their wood-burning oven.  The pizzas are pretty good, even when put up against my snobby NY-pizza palate and if you go during Happy Hour you can check one out for only $7.  Their pasta dishes are also quite delish, like the Ragu Campagna with a deliciously tender pork ragu, broccoli rabe and a soft fiery flavor – try a Happy Hour portion for $10. 

A tip for the indecisive dessert-heads like me: they offer a sampler which gives you the opportunity to try a little bit of everything.  If you prefer a nightcap to top off your meal, try the Cinzano Iced Tea of Italian sweet vermouth and lemoncello over ice.  The wine list is also pretty comprehensive and if you go for Happy Hour you can snag a glass of something special for only $5.  This place is great for Happy Hour, date night or dinner with friends so you should definitely check it out if you haven’t done so already or give it a revisit if it’s been a while.